Growing Old, Growing Free Chapter Three
This is the third extract from my new book, Growing Old, Growing Free about my journey to becoming a full time traveller in my sixties.
Chapter 3
Mediterranean Magic
Less than three weeks later I was boarding a ship at Southampton port again. I had really enjoyed my previous trip, and found myself, almost without thinking, looking to see if I could find a deal to surpass the last one. And I did.
This time I was off for a two week cruise around the Med, and I was delighted to be on the same ship, The MSC Virtuosa. I couldn’t believe that I managed to pay just £790 for two whole weeks!
Leaving England on a grey and rainy day heading for the Mediterranean, felt wonderful. This time there were no nerves or worries, just eager excitement. Once again I was on the ship extremely quickly, but this time I knew my way around so didn’t spend much time getting lost! It was also lovely to see that many of the staff remembered me, very surprising considering the number of passengers they must see.
My cabin was a small inside one again, but I was fine with that. I spent early mornings up on deck anyway, so it wasn’t as if I was missing very much. I had also worked out that I could get an extra free holiday for not having a balcony, which seemed a pretty fair exchange!
Le Havre
Our first stop was the busy commercial port of Le Havre. Often when the ship docked, they provided shuttle buses to take us to a nearby town. So I took the bus and had a little wander around the street cafes and shops. I had lived in France before, so it was nice to be able to speak the language again.
Le Havre was right at the centre of many fierce battles during the second world war, and had been occupied for some time. It was a strategic point, as it is located on the English Channel and also the mouth of the river Seine. It was from here the Germans intended to invade Britain.
This resulted in very heavy bombing from both sides, leaving over 82% of the buildings destroyed, or severely damaged. This means Le Havre is quite a new town with a postwar modernist style. The buildings are not really to my liking as they are mostly concrete, but still it was an interesting and thought provoking place to visit. In 2005 Le Havre was awarded the UNESCO world heritage site.
It was wet and cold in Le Havre so, after a delicious coffee, I took the shuttle back to the ship just in time for lunch. The food really was superb and the choices, seemingly endless. Lucky they had a gym and running track on board!
La Coruna
The following day we arrived in La Coruna in Spain. The weather was gorgeous and it was lovely to wake up to blue skies and sunshine. I had arranged a trip to Santiago de Compostela, in the north west corner of Spain.
It is somewhere I had wanted to visit for a long time as it is the end of the world famous, Camino, ‘The Pilgrims Walk’, and is steeped in history. The buildings are truly magnificent, but it is the atmosphere which is electric. Pilgrims arrive in the town with heavy backpacks having treked at least 100 kms (the minimum required), and possibly as far as 1717 km to complete the walk.
Along the route walkers must get their ‘Credencial del Peregrino’ (Camino passport) stamped at various locations, twice each day in order to prove they have completed the walk. This can be at churches, hostels, cathedrals, etc. When they arrive in Santiago de Compostela they have their final certificates/passports stamped in the Pilgrims Office.
There are seven main Camino routes. These are, James; Camino Frances (the French Way), Camino Portugués (the Portuguese Way), Camino del Norte (the Northern Way), Camino Primitivo (the Original Way), Via de la Plata (the Silver Way), Camino Inglés (the English Way) and Camino Finisterre-Muxía
I sat on the floor of the huge square and spoke to a French couple in their fifties, who had just arrived in Santiago de Compostela, all the way on the Camino Primitivo, over 322 km! They had been walking for well over 3 weeks, and were absolutely elated to have arrived. Sore feet and aching muscles, but very happy!
I walked through the town, gazing at the incrediblearchitecture, especially the cathedral and monastery. Everywhere you looked was a little slice of history, many buildings dating back to the ninth century when the first Camino took place. I found a lovely little restaurant and sat outside in the sunshine, taking in the incredible atmosphere, dining in paella and sipping a chilled glass of wine.
I really enjoyed my time there and would love to do the Camino myself, though probably the shortest one of about 100 km. Although I am in my sixties there are many people far older than me who walk it every year. In fact the oldest person reported to have walked it was a lady called Dorothea Adaskin, she was 93 years old and walked it with her granddaughter!
Lisbon
Lisbon is the charming capital city of Portugal, and as well as being a beautiful cosmopolitan place to visit, it has amazing beaches, hundreds of shops, restaurants and an enviable ‘cafe culture’. it is vibrant, fascinating and bursting with history. I was excited to be on our way!
The weather was absolutely gorgeous as we sailed in to port, and the sky the most incredible shade of blue. I always find it quite magical to watch the waking up of a new day and a place come to life. Shops opening their shutters, streets being cleaned, lorries delivering goods, people out for an early morning stroll with their dog. Birds swooping from tree to tree tweeting to anyone who cares to listen. The sights, sounds and smells which say, ‘Good morning’.
I had booked an excursion and was about to have one of the best, and also poignant, mornings. The trip was a ‘Duck Tour’, my very first experience on one. Something I have learned on my travels is it is often the people you meet while travelling, who help make the most amazing memories and today was no exception!
It started with the incredible crew who made sure everyone on board left all their inhibitions and worries behind the minute they stepped aboard. In next to no time they had us singing, clapping and even dancing (though still in our seats with our seat belts on!) They drove on to the water which was truly exhilarating, with many bystanders laughing, cheering and waving as we ‘set sail’.
After an hour of cruising along the Portside and a fantastic, and very funny, history tour, we were back on land and being fed Pastel de Nata. These are incredibly tasty egg custard tarts, which are famous in Portugal.
Our ride was not over yet and the, large yellow tank-like-bulldozer, rode up the steep streets like cutting through butter. Once again we were treated to the most engaging history lesson I have ever known. With its stunning hillside views, winding streets, slopping hills and air of sophistication, it is hard to imagine the devastating earthquake, fires and tsunami that struck Lisbon in 1755.
The earthquake was estimated to have been 8.5 - 9.00 on the Richter scale, which is the largest earthquake to impact Europe. This caused huge fires to erupt throughout the city and demolished hundreds of buildings. This was followed by a catastrophic tsunami, which resulted in many people drowning. The earthquake, fire and tsunami combined resulted in an estimated 70,000 deaths.
Lisbon lost a quarter of its population and 85% of its buildings were either destroyed or severely damaged. The King and Prime Minister vowed to rebuild the city and within three months Manuel da Maia, the chief architect presented his plans.
Today Lisbon is a thriving city with a robust economy, providing a high quality of life, affordable cost of living and a rich history. It was a pleasure to spend some time there and, not only have fun, but also learn a little about the culture, people and history. It is somewhere I will definitely be returning to very soon.
Cadiz
The next port of call was Cadiz,Spain, which is reputed to be the oldest city in Western Europe. It is famous for its Moroccan and Spanish architecture, and I was really looking forward to taking a tour.
Unfortunately I was a little under the weather, so didn’t get off the ship so instead spoilt myself with a day in the spa on board. It was really quiet as most of the people had gone to explore Cadiz, and while I was sad not to be going, having a little rest today would be good for my next excursion, which I knew was going to be exciting.
I knew Cadiz was famous for its sea food, so decided lunch would be a sea food platter and a glass of delicious Jerez, a sherry wine grown in the area. I took my lunch out on the deck where I could at least see across the port of Cadiz while I was eating!
Although I didn’t get to experience this vibrant and interesting city, you might be lucky enough to, so here are a few interesting facts I found from my research.
Cadiz is a truly ancient city, traditionally founded as 'Gadir' in 1100 BC by the Phoenicians and is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Spain.
Cadiz old town, which is Europes oldest inhabited urban area, is mostly pedestrianised, so is easy to walk around. It is located within the remnants of the city walls. It is a picturesque mix of cobbled street, plazas, ancient churches and beautifully painted buildings with the gold domed cathedral as the icing on the cake.
Cadiz is also the city that Christopher Columbus sailed from to discover ‘The New World’ in 1493. He first landed in The Caribbean and named the island Dominica. Fortunately after three years of sailing the globe he returned safely in 1496.
Cadiz has one of the most famous carnivals in the world, which is basically a huge street party where everyone gets dressed up, The carnival lasts for 11 days and attracts many thousands of people. The carnival is usually held in February. After writing all that I think I definitely need to return!
Casablanca Morocco
Just a short sail from Cadiz is the African continent and our next port is the incredible port of Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco. Even before stepping off the ship I was conjuring up images of Casablanca, including Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman’s romantic affair, and the mystique I was expecting to find.
The ship arrived into port in the early morning and already you could feel the heat of the day. It is going to be a hot one! From the deck I could hear the ‘call to prayer’ and the sounds and smells of the workings of daily life.
I had arranged a tour this morning to the Hassan 11 Mosque, which has the capacity to hold 105,000 worshippers. How incredible is that! It is the second largest Mosque in the whole of Africa and was completed by more than 6000 craftsman and took just six years. It is a truly magnificent sight to see, especially with the gorgeous turquoise sea as the backdrop.
Barcelona
This trip was turning into something quite extraordinary! Not only was I having an incredible time cruising around the Mediterranean, soaking up the sunshine, sipping cool drinks by the pool and chatting with other guests, but I was experiencing amazing sights and having a fascinating history lesson too.
Today I was off to Barcelona and was gong to visit the Sagrada Familia. I was so excited! I had seen many pictures and documentaries of Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece and couldn’t wait to get up close. It is the largest unfinished church in the world. The work began in 1882 and is still going on today, though I have recently read that they have a new completion date of 2026.
Antonio Gaudi took over the work of the basilica in 1883, and when he died in 1926, only a quarter of the work was completed. He was run over by a tram on his way to The Sagrada Familia and died of his injuries. He is buried in the church crypt.
The design is built in the style of gothic architecture, and is truly a work of art. In fact it is quite mesmerising to see and you almost cannot believe your eyes. It is the most visited tourist attraction in the whole of Spain which, sadly, makes it very crowded and I could only view it from a bit of a distance, which was a little disappointing. You can get tickets to tour inside but these need to be purchased some time in advance (around 40 euros). However, it is somewhere I will go back to at a, hopefully, quieter time.
Mallorca
Sailing in to the port at Palma, Mallorca is absolutely beautiful, it just oozes elegance. From the port you can see the stunning Cathedral, ‘The Cathedral Of Santa Maria, Palma’. It has sixty one stunning stained glass windows, two of which were designed by Antonio Gaudi. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to go inside this time as there was a long queue.
Today I had booked another excursion. It was something I had read about for several years and I couldn’t wait, but first we had to get to the top! The coach slowly wound its way up the steep mountainside of the The Serra de Tramuntana, a majestic mountain range in the middle of Mallorca, onwards and upwards towards our destination.
As we climbed higher and higher I could see the rows and rows of orange groves, and the air was filled with the most delicious fragrance. In fact the citrus aroma can be smelt throughout the entire valley and it is often referred to as ‘The Valley of Oranges’.
But it was not this beautiful sight that I had come up to see.
Situated deep in the mountains is the small village of Soller, which was an isolated place only accessible by donkeys or walking, until this remarkable train changed everything. In 1928 the Soller to Palma train line was opened and the beautiful old wooden train with its stunning brass fittings, still runs to this day and is a major tourist attraction.
Soller is a small, hustling, bustling place and is quite touristy, but it doesn’t detract from the beauty and loveliness of this mountain hideaway. The main street is lined with little cafe’s and restaurants and has a small square in the centre and an ancient church, Saint Bartholomew, which was built in the 13th century.
Every hour the old wooden Soller Street Tram runs through the middle of the village, ringing its bell and taking lucky sightseers to the beautiful port of Soller, about a fifteen minute ride away. Sadly we did not have time for this, but Soller is another place I would very much like to return to. I think that is one of the wonderful things about going on a cruise. You get to see a little snippet of a place, and then you can decide if you want to revisit.
After lunch I strolled over to the charming little train station where I first glimpsed the beautiful old wooden train in all her glory! She is simply stunning and I couldn’t wait to get on board. It feels like stepping back in time and for just 20 euros (one way) you can board the narrow gauge railway, and travel 27 kilometres back to Palma
The ride was everything I had imagined it to be, and more. I felt like a child at Christmas! I know the train is primarily for tourists now ( they have built a new road down), but it is truly a fantastic ride with a very unusual station at the bottom. Definitely worth going to visit.
All too soon my time in Mallorca was over and it was time to return to the ship. There were still two more ports of call though and I was excited to see the beautiful town we were heading to.
Valencia
Valencia is a city of contrasts, mixing the old and the new seamlessly, with ancient masterpieces in the old town, sitting comfortably alongside futuristic buildings in the new part.
I had only a few hours there, but took a short walk along the Garden del Turia route, which was created in the riverbed when they diverted the river Turia. It has been developed and extended for many years ,and is now one of Spains largest urban parks and is absolutely gorgeous.
I strolled along a few streets and then found a lovely cafe in the plaza where I sat eating a lunch of paella, washed down with a glass of Moscatel. The sun was shining, the sky was blue and here I was living I life I had only dreamed of before. I never wanted it to end.
After a short bus ride back to the ship I found a shady little place and settled down for an afternoon nap. This was my idea of heaven! I lay on my sun bed, listening to the sounds of people enjoying themselves, and counting my blessings and thinking how lucky I was. As I drifted off to sleep I could feel the beginnings of thoughts stirring in my mind, about becoming a full-time traveller.
Alicante
The following morning we arrived in the historic port of Alicante watched over by the stunning Santa Barbara Castle. You can either climb to the top of take the lift. It offers fantastic 360 degree views and is well worth a visit.
Alicante is the first foreign place I ever visited, more than 55 years ago. It holds a special place in my heart, especially remembering the tiny, old- fashioned hotel we stayed in beside the endless, golden sandy beach. It was so hot when we arrived in August, and I can still remember thinking as a little girl, that I was going to die when I took my first breath as I stepped off the plane!
The old town of Alicante has many staircases and winding streets which lead you to the heart of the city, it is known as El Barrio. One of the most beautiful buildings in Alicante is the Basilica of Santa Maria with gothic architecture and includes a stunning golden18th century Rococo alter.
Deciding not to climb to the top I chose a little beachside restaurant where they were grilling fish on the barbecue. The breeze from the sea was very welcome as I sipped an ice cool Sangria.
The ship was leaving the port early today as we were going to make our way slowly back to Southampton, so it was time for a reluctant goodbye and on the shuttle bus back to the ship.
I had really enjoyed my Mediterranean Cruise and on the way back, a little seed started growing in my head. What if I could do this all the time? What if I could travel whenever I wanted! Was it possible? Was I brave enough? Could I afford it?
I didn’t know anyone of my age, or older who travelled full time on their own, but that didn’t mean that I couldn’t. I started dreaming of how I turn my dream in to a reality. There were so many new places I wanted to see, and countless that I hoped to return to. I thought of sights that I knew would take my breath away, tastes of delicious food yet untried.
I imagined the sounds of different cultures waking me up in the morning. The wonderful aromas of cooking and the adventures I could be having rather than living a life back home that didn’t fulfil me.
What I could never have imagined was all the incredible people I would meet along the way, and it was these people that would make my journey one of the most incredible experiences of my life.
What on earth was I waiting for?
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